Monday, May 2, 2011

T Minus 42 Hours - Commence Full Panic Mode

Okay, so I'm expected to sew with Sandra Betzina Wednesday, and I need to get my act together. I decided to do Vogue 7903, which has 17 reviews on PR and looks much more tailored than the other Vogue I was thinking of doing.


Now this is only one day of sewing, unlike the class last year which was 3 days, so I figured I should go with fabric cut out already to work on sewing techniques. The problem is that I need fitting help, which it says she will do, but I only have time to do one or the other probably. So I cut out a muslin first to see what kind of fit issues I have.


Oh brother. I already graded from a size B (for a 34" bust, but should I have based that on a high bust of 32" instead? I think she said in her book to always go on high bust) to a size A at the upper armscye (is that the same as armhole, just a much nicer word?) as recommended for narrow shoulders, but I still need another inch at least off those shoulders.


And that bodice is too full - ooh, I've never done a SBA (wait, does that stand for sway back adjustment - I meant small bust adjustment)- maybe I should just size the whole upper part down to an A?


And obviously the hips need to be let out even more than the C I sized up to - maybe just smaller side seams so I don't have to mess with all those darts.


And I didn't do a swayback adjustment because of the 2 darts there, plus I wanted to see what was up before I started messing with it.


And I think from the above pic that the armscye needs lowering, or else I sewed that back dart totally off-grain. Yeesh.

So, anybody make this shirt before and have any suggestions? I reckon I'll take this muslin with me and just work on fitting help - I haven't even cut out sleeves or collar stuff yet. And several reviews said the collar was confusing, so I really wanted to work that out with her, but oh well - if she can get it to fit then I can figure the rest out at PR hopefully.

Time for wine!

5 comments:

Sheila said...

I am not an expert.. Is it possible to do bust darts to remove the fullness... and agree removing a 1/2 - 1" from the shoulder should work.

gwensews said...

I'm sure she'll advise you on the fitting. I'm sure you can learn both the fitting and the techniques, if you don't expect a finished garment at the end of the day. Have a wonderful time!

sewistafashionista said...

Go with what you have. I'm sure it will be a terrific class. Maybe during breaks take a look-see at the other participants to see if someone else shares your figure/fitting idiosyncracies, and then ask her what her techniques were. (Of course, don't lead with "I see you have a small bust too!" ;) )

Dr. Fun (AKA Sister) said...

Sheila - I guess I'll find out tomorrow.

Gwen - Those were the exact words of Robbie, who's doing the class tomorrow too - she's even just bringing muslin fabric. I need to lower my expectations of myself at these things.

Sewista - HA! "I can't help but notice your large hips..."

Robbie said...

HA, HA!!! I don't have a small bust but I've definitely got the large hips! BTW, the word verification for this comment is hipping, I just couldn't resist.